Category: South America
Sacred Valley (Hikes)

Sacred Valley (Hikes)

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Salineras de Maras & Moray

Not only is it full of magnificent Inca ruins, the sacred valley of Peru boasts a stunning nature which can be enjoyed through a number of hiking trails. The hike that I did and will be described in this post will take you, not only, through unspoiled nature away from mass tourism, but also will pass by two of the must-see ruins/sights in the sacred valley; and as always…All On Your Own…So let us begin:)

Urubamba → Salineras de Maras → Moray:

This hike is fairly easy and suitable for the average hiker; albeit, it is a bit long. So, based in Cusco, you’ll need to start your day early to take your time and enjoy all it has to offer.

To get to the start of the hike from Cusco, again the collective is your savior:) As you now became an expert with how to navigate your way in the sacred valley through collectivos, there is a designated stop in Cusco for the collectivos heading directly to Urubamba, or you can take a collective to Pisac then Urubamaba (click to request info).

Urubamaba is in the middle of the sacred valley and when you arrive there, the collective will drop you on the main sacred valley’s road adjacent to the river. Don’t enter Urubamaba itself, instead head across the street towards the river to reach the trailhead (click to request info).

Immediately when you start hiking you’ll cross a wooden bridge over the river and then you’ll find a small gate and a little boy selling tickets to Salineras. Don’t be alarmed, it is not a scam!! But because you took the road less-traveled to reach Salineras, this is not the main gate that all tourists use to reach the salt mines. Buy your ticket and be ready to reach Salineras like no other tourist:)

The hike from the gate to the salt terraces of Salineras is an uphill hike, yet it is fairly moderate and will take you around 40 minutes to reach your destination.

The trail digs itself in the pass between the hills and along the way you’ll get amazing views of the valley behind you…so enjoy.

 

Since you took the road less-traveled, you’ll reach Salineras from the bottom, unlike the tour groups’ tourists, so you’ll have this section of the mines to yourself:) 

The way these mines are engineered from ancient times and the fact that they are still operational till today is fascinating. You can walk on the terraces themselves but be careful not to slip…so enjoy and admire this marvelous engineering feat. When you are ready, head your way up the terraces to the main gate from which tour groups arrive and say a final goodbye to those amazing mines.

Now that you finished the first leg of the hike, take a break and rest because the next leg is very long and it is the true definition of “off-the-beaten-pass”!

There is a road connecting Salineras to Moray, but few people know that there is also a hiking trail along the ridge of the mountains that takes you directly there. First, you’ll start walking on the main road and after few meters you’ll venture into a side road away from the tour buses. On this road, you’ll be totally alone…Only you, some wildlife, and stunning nature! 

It is a serene and a very satisfying feeling to be so immersed in nature with no civilization around you to spoil the views! But don’t let the serenity take you along this road for too long because very shortly you’ll take a detour to the hiking trails (click to request info).

Once you find the trail, it’ll be a straightforward hike to Moray on a mostly flat terrain; however, it is a long trail which will take you around 3 hours to complete.

Congratulations!!! You’ve arrived at Moray On Your Own and via a route that few people take; and, above all, this isn’t one of the main ruins on the tourists’ trail so there will be few people around. Enjoy this ancient amphitheater; and then you’ll need to arrange your ride back to Cusco.

There are no collectivos or public transportation from Moray to Cusco, so the best way to go back is to find a local taxi (I’ve to admit, not many stop there), or hitchhike a ride and pay a small fee to a local guy. It might sound alarming that you might get stuck in Moray, but don’t worry you’ll find your way back and actually this is part of the fun of doing it On Your Own…SO ENJOY:)
Sacred Valley (Towns & Ruins)

Sacred Valley (Towns & Ruins)

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Towns & Ruins

I explored the magnificent towns of the sacred valley on two different routes which I recommend to every independent traveler and they both can be done On Your Own:

  • Cusco → Tipon → Cusco:

Tipon is not in the sacred valley proper, yet it lies at a high elevation to the south of the valley; yet there are some beautiful ruins here that are worth the trip.

It is really easy and straight-forward to go to Tipon on your own, you don’t need to join a cramped organized tour for that. From Cusco, you’ll take a collective directly to Tipon which takes around 30 minutes and for only 5 soles; however, as there are different collectivo stops in Cusco, depending on your destination, you’ll need to head to the right one for Tipon (click to request info).

Arriving at Tipon, you’ll start hiking to the ruins. Since the ruins are outside of town, which makes them more magical, you’ll hike around 3 hours (each way) to visit them on a well-marked trail. From the collective stop, you’ll see signs to the ruins or you can ask any local about “el camino” to the ruins and they will point which direction to you. The hike is about 1-1:30 hours of an uphill climb to the first terraces of the ruins. The first section of the trail consists of a dirt road passing through some local houses which will then be followed by a trail in the mountains with some beautiful scenery.

These ruins are off-the-beaten-path of the sacred valley and few tour groups go there which makes them much more special. When you arrive at the ruins, you’ll find yourself almost alone there and you be free to explore as much as you want of these ruins, take lots of pictures of your, almost private, Inca ruins; and if you still have an appetite for more ruins, you’ll see signs for “Pucara” which is another ruin’s site close-by. After getting your ruins’ fix:) you can head back to Cusco, same way as you came, or you can try the “cuy” in Tipon (click to request info).

  • Cusco → Pisac → Ollantaytambo → Cusco:

This tour is about visiting the small towns of the sacred valley and their ruins, on your own, and soak in the cultural and historic highlights of this special spot of our planet. In order to be able to optimize your time and be able to visit all the highlights on a day-trip from Cusco, you’ll have to get a grasp of the sacred valley’s geography and have a good map with you (click to request info).

The first stop in this tour will be Pisac. Apart from its ruins, Pisac is famous for its bustling market and a trip to visit this market should be on each explorer’s itinerary. To reach Pisac from Cusco, take a collective from its designated stop (click to request info) which will take you directly to Pisac’s main street. Get out here and walk in the direction away from the river and you’ll find the famous market.

You’ll be tempted to explore the market now, but I recommend to wait till you visit the ruins and explore it on your way back. The ruins are up in the hills, so continue walking through the market away from the river till you reach a dirt road which you’ll follow easily to the ruins. But be warned, the hike up to the ruins is fairly steep and if this is your rest day:) then you can take a taxi or hitchhike your way directly to the ruins. After exploring the ruins, the hike back is downhill and easy and takes you directly to the market. So now its shopping time:) Explore the market at your leisure, there are some hidden gems here and true bargains; however, expect to haggle the prices down with the merchants who are mostly friendly and smiling.

Exploring Pisac should take you around 3-4 hours after which you’ll ride all the way along the river to your next stop…Ollantaytambo. Again, from the main road in Pisac where the collective dropped you, you can take another collective to Ollantaytambo or hitchhike your way, but expect to pay a little fee.

Ollantaytambo is a little charming village famous for its Inca ruins. These ruins were used as defensive structures against the Spaniards and they are, in my opinion, the best ruins outside Machu Picchu. You can visit the ruins easily on your own or you can hire a local guide to give you a brief history about the ruins and the village. After visiting the ruins, don’t miss strolling around the old town and have the famous local drink at one of the village’s watering holes:) (click to request info).

Finally, when you are ready to head back to Cusco, there is a direct collective from here, but be aware that this collectivo will drop you at a different stop than the one you started your tour from (click to request info).    

 

 
Sacred Valley

Sacred Valley

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Sacred Valley

The sacred valley of the Incas is one of the famed attractions of Peru and it is comprised of a number of small villages and towns, each with its own character and ruins. Although this part of the country is swarmed with tour companies and tour groups, you can still do it on your own. If big AC buses aren’t your thing, then look no further! It is much more rewarding, enjoyable, and cheaper to do it On Your Own, or, in other words, “Do it as the locals do.”

To do the sacred valley on your own means that you’ll depend on public transportation i.e. collectivos, tok toks, and hitchhiking. What is great about doing it on your own is that you’ll get the chance to meet the true locals, interact with them, listen to their stories (assuming you speak basic Spanish, of course:), and understand how it is like to call such a beautiful place…home!

However, from Cusco, there is a dedicated collective stop for every town in the Sacred Valley, so you’ll have to get your map (click to request info) and go to the right one, or you’ll end up somewhere else.

Not only does the sacred valley include amazing towns and ruins, it also offers the adventurer traveler great hiking opportunities to some of the off-the-beaten-path destinations. Hence, I’ll do separate blog posts for visiting the towns & ruins and for the hikes in the area.
Villarica Volcano Trek (Pucon)

Villarica Volcano Trek (Pucon)

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Villarica Volcano Trek

Pucon is a small city located deep into the Chilean Andes that is best known for its adventure tourism. The major attraction here is the Villarica volcano, which is a perfect conical-shaped volcano, that imposes itself in the city’s backyard. It is a picture-perfect volcano, the one you always imagined when you were a kid: perfectly conical-shaped crater, standing alone, 2,840 meters high, and snow-capped!!

There are many activities and adventures that can be done in Pucon, but this blog is dedicated to the mother of all adventures here…the volcano trek!!

This volcano is one of the many active volcanos in Chile’s ring of fire region (last eruption: March 2015), yet it is the only one that you can hike up all the way to the volcano’s crater! However, to hike-up the volcano, you have to do it with a certified guide i.e. tour company. I know that this might sound not as independent as we all wish, but still there are a lot of planning and preparation you need to do, On Your Own, for this tough adventure. SO LETS START!!

Going to Pucon from Santiago is easy; but, as a budget traveler, I opted for the bus option. There are several buses operating along this route that are very comfortable and modern (click to request info). The journey takes around 10 hours from Santiago! But don’t be discouraged, there are night buses with sleepers that are very comfortable and saves a lot of time and, above all, money:)

If you are going to Pucon only for the volcano trek, it is recommended to spend, at least, a complete full day in the city before your ascent to enjoy the city, rest, and relax before this tough adventure.

Arriving at Pucon in the early morning, check in at your hostel and grab a good breakfast, then it’ll be time to pick your tour company. I assume by now you already did most of your homework on this and, at least, narrowed-down the many available companies to a couple of options. Basically, all the companies offer the same services, same timings, and equipment; they only differ in the size of the group, some luxury amenities that you can do without, flexible logistics, and of course…price! I, personally, narrowed-down my options to two companies before arriving which I can both recommend (click to request info). I waited to chose when I arrive because I wanted to meet the people and inspect the equipment, myself.

Hopefully, you’ll be done with selecting your tour company early-on to relax and stroll around the city (I don’t recommend to do another activity on the day before the hike as the hike will be very tough so you’ll need to take it easy and sleep early). So now to the hike itself:)

The day will start very early, normally you meet your guides and the rest of the group at dawn in front of the company’s office and then they’ll transport you, by a mini-bus, to the national park and the base of the volcano. At this point the guides have to make a decision about whether it’ll be possible to ascend the volcano or not, depending on the weather, which will hopefully be favorable. If not, they will transport you back to the city and you won’t pay anything, but once you started hiking…you’ll pay! In my case, the weather was not that favorable and the guides told us: it is a 50-50 chance of being able to reach the crater…so some decided to do it, obviously me:) while others went back.

Since I did this hike in the off-season (May), the cable cars at the base to the first stop were not operational so we started the hike from the base. The entire hike is very steep, but the first part was the least of them and with no snow on the ground, so it was moderately difficult till reaching the upper cable car’s station. By this point, the weather cleared and it was sunny:) 

From here you’ll start walking in deep snow which will make this hike much much tougher. Our pace got slower and slower, and I was getting tired but the reward waiting for me kept me going.

Unfortunately, it won’t get easier from here and the weather up at the top of the volcano was very different from the base…It was cloudy and windy. Here the guides told us that we won’t be able to see anything from the top, but we can continue if we wanted. So we decided to do it and the last section was as steep and strenuous as a hike I’ve ever did in my life and with the snow…100 times tougher!!

As the guides said, we reached the top and could see nothing from the clouds; moreover, we couldn’t stay up because of the wind… so, yes, we didn’t get a clear view of the crater, but the sense of achievement and the views while going down made it up, somehow, for us!  

The way down is much more fun. The guides will give you slides to sit on and you’ll slide your way back to the base, very fun and lively activity! Clearly I was enjoying it in this picture:)

When reaching the base, you’ll be transported back to the city and depending on your plans, you can have time to shower and eat. All in all, Pucon is a touristy city, but going in the shoulder season was pretty and peaceful; and the volcano trek is a must do for any adventurer.

N.B: There are some other adventure activities that you can do in the area surrounding Pucon as a day trip, but I, personally, didn’t have enough time to do any; albeit I planned for them in case the volcano trek was a no-go. So if you need any suggestions, just drop me an email and I’ll be happy to assist (click to request info)
Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

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[Machu Picchu]

This is the ultimate goal of the whole trip and the amazing trek; visiting this sacred city. In order to make your trip as smooth as possible, there are several logistical things that you need to take care off before embarking on this trip.

First is the entrance ticket to Machu Picchu. There are 3 types of tickets you can purchase: 1) the normal visit with access to Machu Picchu only; 2) Access to Machu Picchu & Montana; 3) Access to Machu Picchu & Huaynapicchu. As you can see, all 3 ticket types give you access to the main site itself, the difference is an additional permit to hike up the surrounding mountains for a view of Machu Picchu from top.

So which ticket to choose? Remember you already saw an amazing view of Machu Picchu on your 4th day of the trek, but if you are up for another very strenuous hike for a closer view, then for me, Huaynapicchu is the one to choose (it is the postcard picture you see for Machu Picchu everywhere). However, you have to take into consideration that the Peruvian authorities limit the number of people hiking this mountain and consequently, these tickets are the hardest to get. On the contrary, Montana’s view isn’t that special, yet it’s still a very strenuous hike and for the same price as Huaynapicchu which makes it not worth it for me. To wrap up this issue, if you feel that you want another view of Machu Picchu and are up for a very strenuous hike after 4 days of trekking, then Huaynapicchu is worth the effort; otherwise, take the cheaper normal ticket, you’ll still get some amazing unforgettable views with this ticket.

Next, having decided which ticket you want, now it’s time to buy it and you should do this in advance especially if you are visiting during the high season (May-September). If you know the exact date of your visit and are familiar with the acclimatization process for high elevation, know your body well and exactly how long you’ll need to spend in Cusco to acclimatize (2-3 days), then you can buy your tickets online through the official website (click to request info). If that’s is not the case and you need to test your body’s reaction to high elevation first, then buy the ticket at the ticket office located in Cusco when you arrive (click to request info), and remember to take your passport with you while buying your ticket. Congratulations, you now have your ticket to Machu Picchu, which should look like this.

 

The final logistical step you need to take care of is how to go from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. I know the adventurous independent traveler spirit in you will say that you should hike up, but believe me, this is an extremely strenuous hike over endless number of stairs in the forest with no views; and by that time, your body will need a rest after 4 long trekking days. Therefore, I recommend that you take the bus up and hike down on your way back. So, buy a 1-way bus ticket from the ticket office in front on the bus stop in Aguas Calientes (click to request info), it costs $12 and you’ve to pay in cash in US$ and should look like this; and remember to take your passport with you to Machu Picchu as you’ll need it at the entrance.

 

Now that you reached Machu Picchu and fulfilled your dream of visiting this amazing sacred city, I’ll leave you to wander around and explore it on your own.

Take lots and lots of pictures from different viewpoints and different angles, it’s a truly amazing site with amazing surroundings and you are in one of the most special places on our planet…so enjoy, but don’t leave Machu Picchu before taking your special free souvenir on your way out (click to request info).
Salkantay Trail (Day 5)

Salkantay Trail (Day 5)

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[The Way Back]

Getting out of Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu on your own can be a bit tricky, yet, with some careful planning, it’s totally doable. You’ve two gateway cities that you need to reach to continue your adventure: Cusco or Ollantaytambo; and depending on your destination, you can either leave on the same day you visited Machu Picchu or spend one extra night in Aguas Calientes and leave the next day. If your destination is Ollantaytambo, then you’ve to spend the extra night as it’s a long hike from Aguas Calientes and you can’t reach it in the same day. So here are the tips you can use on how to reach each gateway city on your own; however, in both cases you’ll skip the bus option back from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes to save few dollars and hike down on your own using the stairs constructed by the Inca people in the forest which will take you around an hour:

  • Cusco: If you are heading to Cusco, then you’ll have to hike your way back to Hidroelectrica using the same train tracks trail you used to reach Aguas Calientes; you’ll be against the normal flow of people which is a bit worrying and you’ll know why later.

 

From Hidroelectrica, you’ll have to take transport to Cusco, which is very far away and over a dangerous mountain road, and it will take you a good 6 hours to reach Cusco. Also, beware that there is no regular bus stop here and this route isn’t commonly used by tourists, so you’ll have to strike a deal with a driver to take you there, which can be expensive, or go to Santa Teresa and find your transport from there. One final hint, since Hidroelectrica is just a place that evolves around the train station, it becomes deserted after the last train of the day (click to request info) and no one will be there to help you which means you’ll get stuck in the middle of nowhere!

  • Olantaytambo: This is the more recommended and straight-forward option. You spend the night in Aguas Calientes and the next morning you wake up at leisure and hike down to Olantaytambo along the train tracks, but on the opposite direction from which you came from. This hike is an easy hike along the forest and train tracks, but long enough to take around 7-8 hours. Having reached Olantaytambo, you can now relax, check out the ruins there and plan your next adventure…IT IS ADDICTIVE:)

 
Salkantay Trail (Day 4)

Salkantay Trail (Day 4)

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[Llactapata → Aguas Calientes]

This is it, this is the day when you’ll be able to tell your friends that “I reached the holy cities of Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu from Cusco trekking on my own.” It’ll be a beautiful hiking day full of achievements and self-reflection on your great adventure.

You’ll start the day waking up at the ancient site of Llactapata and from there you’ll have a magnificent view of the crown jewel…”Machu Picchu itself”, that few other people see or even realize that it exists…and it’s a free view! Take as much time as you want to admire this view and soak in all the feelings of humbleness, achievement, conquering, nomadic, back-in-time…and lots more as every person will have his/her unique reflections at that moment, while immersed in the perfect blend between the beauty of our planet and the genius of the mankind. I know it’ll be a tough decision to leave this view and hike down, but, at the same time, remember that your ultimate prize for all this effort is awaiting for you.

It’ll take approximately 2 hours of hiking down to reach Hidroelectrica as you’ll descend 900 meters while the adrenaline is rushing through your veins while you get closer and closer to Aguas Calientes. The hike is pleasant and easy and at Hidroelectrica you’ll meet a wide array of fellow travelers: those who, unfortunately, didn’t know that they can do what you did and are taking the train; those who used guides to get them to this point; and those like you…the adventurous self-believers!

Hidroelectrica is not a town, its actually, as the name suggests, a place where there is an electrical power plant and a train station that goes to Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo. You’ll be asked to register your name and passport here as it is considered the boundaries of the sacred city, which is an easy, self-done process. From here you’ll hike along the train tracks all the way to Aguas Calientes. Although officially illegal, it was the ancient path to reach Aguas Calientes and the authorities disregard this rule and allow people to hike. Of course, it can be dangerous as trains pass by, but the drivers know that people are hiking and give plenty of warnings.

 

The hike is a slight uphill, but you won’t feel it; on the contrary, you’ll get the feeling that you are in a pilgrimage to reach the holy city. People from all walks of life, from different nationalities, different backgrounds, different attitudes, and different beliefs; yet all are uniting for one single goal…reaching the historic city of Aguas Calientes as our ancestors used to do in ancient times. Enjoy the hike, get to know your fellow travelers, share stories and tips, and reflect on your adventures.

You are finally there!! the feeling of reaching Aguas Calientes can’t be described in words…in addition to the anticipation of a hot shower:). The train tracks cut through the town and you’ll find lots of restaurants, souvenir shops, and hotels that cater for tourists, yet you can still find the local ones and have the amazing local experience away from all this (click to request info).

You did it fellow adventurer, and tomorrow you’ll be in Machu Picchu where flocks of tourists will be there too, but you’ll know that YOU ARE DIFFERENT.
Salkantay Trail (Day 3)

Salkantay Trail (Day 3)

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[Chaullay → Llactapata]

I bet you woke up smiling and full of self-confidence! Another reason to smile is that this will be the easiest day of the trek. It will be downhill on a graded, not steep, slope for almost 90% of the day, so no need to wake up so early. In this day, you will have to decide: in how long, and how do you want to reach Aguas Calientes, more on this later. From Chaullay you will hike downhill all the way to la playa at +2,200m. This is a long, yet a very pleasant hike; you will leave the high elevation mountains and start hiking in the lush green canyon carved by a roaring river and the tropical flora will start revealing itself all around you. In a short while, about an hour, you will reach Collpapampa. There are no major signs here, but it’s a location where a nice waterfall appears over the cliff. From Collpapampa you will head towards La Playa and a dirt road will appear on the right side of the river, while the actual trail is on the left. However, check the trail conditions of this section while in Cusco as it often becomes inaccessible because of mudslides. This was actually the case when we hiked the trail, but no need to panic as you can continue your trek on the dirt road which feels more like a trail actually.

At Collpapampa you will have the freedom to make either choice, but, for sure, if the trail is open…then take it, although it is tougher to hike as it is not graded and switches from being uphill to downhill, and vice-versa frequently, through several switchbacks. However, if at any point you wanted to switch between the road and the trail, it is totally doable via a primitive, yet a fascinating, local mechanism (click to request info). Throughout this section, you will cross streams and maneuver your way jumping over rocks and wooden branches which is fun and adventurous at the same time, you will start meeting more and more local people as you head towards La Playa, which is a big village.

 

Although this section is extremely enjoyable and beautiful, it can become pretty dangerous due to mud slides, on the trail or the road, depending on the season you hike in, with spring being the most dangerous. It actually happened to us, at one section a mudslide occurred over the road and it was blocked for an hour or more, so be aware of the mountain above you and be flexible with your plans and always have alternatives ready in case of any delays.

At La Playa, the choices are open in front of you; although the choice should have been made already before starting the trek. There are 3 ways of approaching Aguas Calientes from here depending on how many days you planned for the trek and the date of your ticket to Machu Picchu, should be booked in advance (see Machu Picchu page), and the experience you want to get from this day.

First option: if you plan to reach Aguas Calientes today (i.e. total 3 days), then you have to run:). It will be tricky, yet doable, albeit at some point you need to use some kind of transport and you should definitely take a flashlight with you, you will hike in the dark. If you opt for this option, the route via Santa Teresa is the one to choose as it does not involve lots of uphills. Depending on the time and the delays you faced, you can hike to Santa Teresa then take transport to Hidroelectrica, (click to request info), then hike to Aguas Calientes.

Second option: if your plan is to reach Aguas Calientes tomorrow, then you can go to Santa Teresa and spend the night there. This is the easiest option, yet the least recommended as Santa Teresa is a modern town sprawling with tour groups and tourists with fancy restaurants and internet cafes which will get you completely out of the adventure mood and ruin the moment of reaching Aguas Calientes.

Third option: This is the most recommended option, you will reach Aguas Calientes tomorrow but you will spend the night camping at Llactapata. Although, by hiking this route you will have to conquer another uphill section by gaining 500m in elevation, yet it is a relatively short hike to your camping place compared to the previous sections and, believe me, tomorrow morning you will not regret this decision (see day 4). Heading to Llactapata, you will start leaving the valley and head again to the top of the lower mountains. This section will be all uphill, but you will start getting amazing panoramic views of the valleys again. Reaching Llactapata after approximately 3 hours of hiking, you will find some ancient Inca ruins. In spite of not being as famous or as grandeur as Machu Picchu, this actually makes them more special and attractive as you will feel that they are yours as only very few people will be there with u; and guess what? You can camp right next to them which is a perfect reward at the end of this amazing day.

 

Overall, this day is a pleasant hiking day with some effort needed in certain sections, yet remember to plan for any possible delays. You will have different scenery while hiking this day from the previous day and you will feel more immersed in the Peruvian countryside culture. For us we were delayed 1 hour and it took us 7 hours of hiking to reach our destination which was another 20km away from Chaullay.
Salkantay Trail (Day 1)

Salkantay Trail (Day 1)

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[Mollepata → Soraypampa]

The Salkantay trail starts from Mollepata and it takes 4 days to reach Aguas Calientes. Mollepata can be reached independently and on budget easily from Cusco by taking a collective from a designated stop in Cusco (click to request info) to the main square in Mollepata. The journey is a bit long so you have to start the day very early to reach the collective stop by 6am, store your bags at the top of the car, and wait till it gets full and leave. It takes approximately 2 hours to reach Mollepata but most of the way is on a well-paved asphalt road. Before boarding the collective, be sure that you have all the Soles you need till you reach Aguas Calientes as there are no ATMs in Mollepata; otherwise, you will have to figure out what the locals do to exchange their money (click to request info) which can be a hassle.

 

After reaching Mollepata, you will now start the trek and this will be the toughest full day of the entire trek as it is all uphill and you gain around 1,100 meters in elevation at high altitude while carrying the heaviest bags of your trip. The trailhead can be easily found from the main square as you only need to utilize your sense of direction and head onto the right street after which you will start seeing signs for the trail (click to request info). The first section of the trail is a bit steep as you aim for reaching Marcocasa at +3,450 meters after 6km of hiking; however, you will be treated with a lush of green forest around you.

 

At this point, after 3 hours of hiking, you should take a good rest and recharge your batteries as the next section is the toughest.

In the second part of the trail you will get into the forest and head uphill to Mirador Chinchirkuma gaining 320m in elevation in 3.6km. Going slowly through the forest you’ll start heading above-the-treeline and the magnificent sight of the snow-capped mountains will start to unveil in front of you.

 

The feeling of reaching the Mirrador is like the feeling of getting out of the ocean after a long dive as, at this point, you are above the treeline and it is 360 degrees of panoramic views of mountains to your left, valleys beneath you, and forests all round you; and above all with the crisp air, previously blocked by the trees, giving you a needed breather and at this altitude you will need every breath of fresh air. This will be a perfect spot for lunch and you can rest, take magnificent pictures, and reward yourself as you accomplished the toughest part of the day; but, do not be fooled, although the rest of the hike is mostly flat, you are now at +3,800m and it will tell on your body and you still have 8km to go.

 

The third and final part of the hike will take you to Soraypampa. You might get a headache and muscle aches due to altitude sickness, but there are ways of mitigating these side effects (click to request info) which will make the rest of the day more enjoyable. This section will be a relaxed one with splendid views of the towering Andes all around you and you should feel excited as you will conquer these mighty mountains tomorrow.

 

When reaching Soraypampa, at +3,922m, (this is not a city, it is a place where you can camp), you can camp anywhere on your own, or camp at one of the camps using your own gear which will give you a chance of using a toilet and eat a hot meal at a very cheap rate. If you opted for the latter option, do not let your tiredness lead you towards the first camp you meet on your way as the lady there will exploit this and over charge you; look around and you will find another camp further ahead that is very cheap and with a much better view (click to request info). One final tip, although you need a good rest, do not sleep too early as you will be treated at night with unbelievable views of the milky way.

Overall, in this day you would have hiked around 20km, gained +1,100m in elevation, in approximately 8:30 hours, so well done.     

     
Salkantay Trail (Day 2)

Salkantay Trail (Day 2)

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[Soraypampa → Chaullay]

This is the big day! It is the day that you should cross the Salkantay pass at +4,630m to the other side of the mountains where the descending part starts. Although the total elevation gain in this day is only +740m till the pass, it is all at high altitude and you will feel the impact of doing effort at this elevation in its full. Two pieces of advice before venturing into this ultimate adventure; 1) take all the altitude sickness remedies you packed before the trip because you will need them; 2) Take Your Time hiking up, at this elevation you will hike at a much slower pace so do not be frustrated…its normal, and take as many rests as you need on your way up to enjoy the pure beauty surrounding you. As it will be the toughest half day of the entire trek, wake up early to give yourself the longest hiking window (daylight) possible, have a good breakfast at the camp and, most importantly, a positive spirit.

In the first section of the uphill you will be aiming for Salkantanypampa at approximately +4,100m. the start of the trail should be easy to spot from your camp. At that time, you might find some guided groups of hikers/horse riders who will out-pace you as they are hiking with no heavy backpacks because the horses are carrying them, so don’t be depressed…you are the real adventurer here. In this section, the towering snow-capped mountains will be facing you popping up from behind the clouds every now and then.

 

Once again remember to constantly take the altitude sickness remedies if you feel any headaches or tiredness with the best being the local tradition (click to request info) and drink lots of water. You will reach Salkantaypampa after 3.2km and 2.5 hours of hiking…too long I know! But once more the most important advice at such altitude is to take your time; at the end, you are on your own and far away from help, but on the positive side, you can see the pass now and this should make the adrenaline rush through your blood.

The next section will take you to Soyroqcocha at +4,400m which is the trickiest section of the entire trek. As you start hiking at a slower and slower pace, after 30 minutes you will meet a junction of two trails with no signs! So, which one to take? One trail is an uphill zigzag wide trail, while the other is a narrow, mostly flat, albeit on a cliff. Although both trails will ultimately lead to Soyroqcacha, one is much tougher than the other and, at this altitude, you will need every tiny bit of energy. In honor of the true adventurer spirit, I will not reveal here which trail to take, but one tip! If you know geography and the definition of a pass…trust your knowledge!! (click to request info).

 

At Soyroqcocha, there will be a beautiful small alpine lake surrounded by meadows, so take a rest enjoying this view and refresh yourself before embarking on the last section to cross the pass.

The final ascent from Soyroqcocha to the Salkantay pass is as tough as it gets. You will probably hike a couple of meters and rest, hike again and rest, but seeing the pass, hiking high in the clouds, and knowing that you are very close and that you deserve the reward of getting there will carry you all the way to the pass and on top of the mighty Andes, believe me…you are almost there.

 

YES, you are now at the pass, you crossed the Andes and hiked above the clouds on your own, you are a true adventurer who believed in him/herself and was rewarded with this amazing feeling.

Now you will be so excited and you will forget all about the altitude sickness, you will be like a little child running around, taking pictures, and congratulating yourself; and please do that, the views from that high, the fact that you are so small in the middle of all these mighty mountains, and the sense of achievement at this point are priceless. You reached the pass after 4-5 hours and 6km of uphill hiking (depending on which trail you took) so congratulations. Take a deserved break, admire the beauty surrounding you that only few people get to see, have a small lunch, and lots of smiles; but be careful, its windy up there and after the adrenaline rush fades away, you might get some headaches. It is up to you how long you want to stay up there, but remember, although its downhill from here all the way to Aguas Calientes, you are still at high elevation and your pace will be slower.

Hiking down the first section from the pass to Wayramarchay at +3,850m will be mostly on a rocky trail so be careful where you put your feet as you can easily slip. With the mighty Salkantay in your back now, you will feel unbeatable and you are! The views and the trail from this side of the mountain gives you a feeling that you are in a completely different planet. Unlike the other side which is green and full of life (it is the side that gets the rain), this side is rocky and barren but that does not mean that it is not as beautiful in its own way and it is more wild.

 

You are now literally in the clouds and looking down to the distant green valley which gives you a panoramic view of the beautiful Peruvian countryside. At Wayramarchay, you will find a small village with a local family selling snacks and drinks from a small kiosk which will be a nice sight and an opportunity to restock your supplies. There will also be a clean water source from where you can refill your water bottles.

The last section to Chaullay is the most pleasant, the mountains will get magnificently lush and green again and you will descend approximately 1,000m to a considerably low altitude of +2,850m. Although the target is Chaullay, if this day proved too long for you, there is another beautiful place where you can camp for a small fee approximately an hour before reaching Chaullay (click to request info); however, if you decided to head to Chaullay, you will be treated by a nice, downhill trail with stunning views.

 

Chaullay is a small village where locals will let you camp for free at their places, these places are mainly simple wooden structures with an upper story where you can set your tent and camp or you can camp in the garden surrounding the house; the former option been particularly useful if it is raining. The whole local family lives there, so be respective and courteous and buy something from them, they make delicious food with the local specialty “Lomo Saltado” and have ice-cold beer, so treat yourself and live the full Peruvian countryside experience.

Overall, in this day you will hike around 22km, gaining an altitude of +740m to the pass at +4,630m, descend -1,800m in approximately 10 hours; so, congratulations “You Crossed the Path On Your Own.”     

 

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