Category: Spain

Anaga Mountains

Anaga Mountains

Anaga Mountains

The forgotten part of Tenerife, yet a place of extreme beauty and serenity. The Anaga mountains are located at the far northern corner of the island, a world away from the bustling cities and beach resorts. It is a landscape that you won’t find something similar in the entirety of the Canary Islands. Unlike the volcanic nature of these islands, the Anaga mountains are lush green mountains up in the clouds with forests and wild beaches dotting the entire region. In this region, you’ll truly experience the local life of these islands with small villages nestled up in the mountains and shepherds and herds of sheep roaming freely on its slopes. Venturing into this region will satisfy your adventurous soul and is well worth the effort to at least do a day hike in this off-the-beaten path region.

Although there is an extensive network of trails in these mountains, it is really hard to get a good map of the entire trail network. However, the website of the natural preserve has detailed maps and descriptions of each individual trail and it is up to you to combine these trails together to enjoy a magnificent day hike On Your Own in this serene region (click to request info).

I did a day hike in the Anaga mountains totally independently through using public buses to connect to and from the start and ending points of my planned hike. I combined a number of trails together to enjoy an amazing hiking day of approximately 17 kms which took around 5-6 hours to complete, passing through several local and stunningly beautiful mountain villages and wild beaches…So lets start the adventure!

This is a rough sketch of my hiking tour in the Anaga mountains and in the following sections, I’ll take you through a detailed journey on each of these trails.

I started my hike at the Mirrador Cruz del Carmen which I reached using a public bus from Santa Cruz (click to request info). I got off the bus and hit the ground running from the excitement. The first trail I hiked on was a 3.7km hike from Cruz del Carmen till Las Carboneras via trails #10 and 10.1. The entire trail is a downhill, so it’ll be a nice warmup for the day. The trail starts from the bus stop at Cruz del Carmen and immediately you’ll enter into the lush green forest and you’ll be forgiven if you forgot that you are in the Canary Islands:)

This trail is so surreal and after around 2.5km on trail #10, you’ll reach a junction with trail #10.1 on which you’ll continue hiking for around 1.2km. This trail should take you around an hour to complete, but don’t be in a hurry and just enjoy the sounds of the forest:)

When reaching the village of Las Carboneras, its now time to switch to another trail. The next trail you’ll hike on will be the longest section of the day (6km). This leg will take you from Las Carboneras to the village of Afor via trail #9. The first section of this trail is mostly downhill again that will take you around a small mountain gorge. One tip here, look back while hiking for magnificent views of Las Carboneras.

The landscape here gets wilder as you are now in the middle of towering mountains and surrounded by forests from all angles…Stunning!

The next section of this trail is one of two uphill sections in the entire day; and although, it is only 1km in length, it is moderately tough and would require some effort to tackle it. Reaching this high point stunning views will start to unveil in all directions. So take a rest and enjoy the views as now you’ll start feeling the true Anaga experience.

From this point the trail will almost be flat for 1.5km, allowing you to soak in the views while hiking and you’ll start passing some local houses with domestic animals playing around:). The next 2km will be a steep downhill to the village of Afor…Facing the ocean while hiking this section, you can’t ask for better views and you’ll reach Afor after almost 1.5 hours on this trail.

Afor is at the mouth of river running from the mountains to the ocean, so the next trail will be hiking along the river till you reach the wild beach of Playa de Tamadite on trail #8. This trail is 2.5km in length, but it is an easy trail and should take you around 30-45 minutes to complete. Along the way you’ll pass several small bridges that cross the river and hiking this trail will feel like you are in a playground:) and it is your own playground as from now on, you’ll hardly meet anyone till you finish this day hike.

Playa de Tamadite is a very wild beach with high waves smashing into the rocks, you can swim there, but it is not easy, so be careful…I personally didn’t:)

Have a good rest here as you’ll start the next big uphill section after this point. The next trail is trail #8 that will take you all the way to the village of Taganana. It is a 4.5km wild hike up the cliffs above the ocean with no one around you…and its amazing! First, you’ll have to navigate the 0.7km uphill section till you reach the top of the trail…its tough but well worth it! At this point, the views are unbelievable… it is beautiful, wild and very surreal. From here to Taganana, you’ll hike on almost a flat trail with the ocean to your left, the mountains to your right, and the beautiful horizon in front of you.

It is a narrow trail that hugs the edge of the cliff which will keep your adrenaline pumping all the way. With every turn, stunning views and rock formations will unveil in front of you…so enjoy:)

Finally, you’ll reach the top of the village of Taganana and you’ll hike down between its white houses till you reach the main square and the bus stop from which you’ll catch your bus back to Santa Cruz. One final tip, Taganana is famous for its locally produced wine, so treat yourself with a glass of tasty wine before you head back and enjoy a magnificent sunset:)

El-Teide

El-Teide

El-Teide

The mighty El-Teide, the dominant volcano that rises in the middle of Tenerife. This is an active volcano that rises proudly above the clouds and you are going to hike it all the way to the top; but before we start, there are some logistical stuff that you need to take care of first.

Yes, there is a cable car that takes you up the mountain, but it does not reach the summit, as it is no place for tourists… and that is what you are aiming for! Being an active volcano, the summit of El-Teide is a protected area and there is a limit on the number of people who can go up at any given time, so you got two options to be able to hike all the way to the top of this majestic volcano. First, if you want to hike up and down in one day, no camping allowed up there, then you’ll need to get a free permit for your planned day (click to request info) and chose from the multiple trails that reaches the top, but be aware…this will be a very long and demanding hiking day. I personally don’t recommend this option as it does not allow you to enjoy the full experience of being up this mighty volcano, and you’ll know why when you see the other option. The second option is the true El-Teide experience, it is a 2-day hike with a sunrise ascent to the summit, and believe me…there is nothing that beats the views that you’ll see:)

So where to spend the night when no camping is allowed?! No worries, there is a mountain refuge at an elevation of +3,260m called Altavista Refuge. This is a mountain hut type of refuge with shared dorms and fully equipped kitchen that you need to book in advance via their website (click to request info) as it gets full quickly.

The next logistical issue that you need to take care of is to plan your hiking route and chose the hiking trails that you want to hike up and down. So, armed with the hiking trails’ map of Parque Nacional Del Teide, you have two options to chose from when going up.

First, you can park your car at El-Portillo and hike all the way up to the refuge via trails # 6 & 7. If you have enough time, I recommend this trail as it traverses a lesser known part of the national park and not as steep as the other trails, although its much longer. The other option, the one I did, is to park your car at Montana Blanca car park and hike up via the Montana Blanca trail # 7 till you reach the refuge. This is a shorter, yet steeper trail, but an equally beautiful one that will take you to the refuge in less time. This will be your first day hike, then the next day you’ll do the sunrise hike to the top of El-Teide from the refuge.

So what about going down? You’ll find that most hikers who spent the night at the refuge will opt to go down via the cable car. Yes, you’ll be tired and beaten, but I strongly don’t recommend this option unless you are in a hurry or have other plans in the island. Honestly, it’s a shame to come up all this way and not to explore the other beauties of the national park; and believe me, the adrenaline will be pumping in your body from your earlier summit achievement and you’ll want to continue your hiking adventure. So, what I did, is I took trail # 12 from the cable car station to Pico Viejo, another perfect conically-shaped volcano that is further downhill at an elevation of +3,134, and then go down to El Parador car park via the long trail # 23. Obviously, the only way to do this hiking trip is to park at one of the car parks at Montana Balance or El Parador and hitch a ride to the other, which is perfectly doable. All set…enough with the logistics and lets start the real fun:)

The first day hike starts at Montana Balance parking; however, the drive to this parking lot is itself an amazing experience as you get closer and closer to this mighty volcano and you’ll say to yourself “no way that this is the mountain that I’m going to hike up”…but…it is:) The trail up to the refuge is 6.5km in length, with an elevation gain of +912m. The first 4km of this trail are not so steep and the trail is easy to follow. You’ll be hiking in a landscape that resembles Mars more than the earth, a total contrast from the lush green beaches that are allover the island. I can’t describe the views and the landscape enough, but they are simply stunning, beautiful, and wild.

After these 4km, you’ll reach a junction with trail #6 and the real ascent will begin. This last 2.5km are a series of switchbacks that go steeply up…forever. So, take your time in this part as you are now close to +3,000m of elevation and your breathing will get more difficult.

Drink lots of water and take as many breaks as you want and soon you’ll be at the refuge, and the feeling when you catch the first sight of the refuge will be one of total relief:) 

At this point, you’ll be done with day one after around 3:30 hours of tough hiking, so simply relax and enjoy the stunning views from up there.

At the refuge itself, they’ll assign you a bed in a 15-20 bed dorm room and there is a fully-equipped kitchen and wifi, so prepare your dinner, relax, and go to be d early to get ready for the big day. P.S. there is no drinking water at the refuge so take your water with you or better…(click to request info) 

It’s the big day now!! you’ll reach the very top of the mighty El-Teide at +3,718m high for a magnificent and an unforgettable sunrise. It will take you around 2 hours to reach the top from the refuge, so time your sleep accordingly to give yourself time to have a good breakfast and a cup of coffee because you’ll need every bit of energy on this day, and DON’T FORGET your headlamp and warm clothing:)

During these 2 hours, you’ll hike in complete darkness, but this adventure has very surreal feelings! Take a picture before you start hiking to commemorate this exciting moment.

The first part of the hike is as steep as the switchbacks from the previous day, but you can do it! With every step, El-Teide will start revealing itself to you in its full force and you’ll think that it is impossible to go up that mighty volcano, but keep believing in yourself:) After this part, there is a part that is half a kilometer away from the cable car station that is almost flat which is a nice reprieve. From the cable car station, the big uphill starts!! This part is around 0.7km, but they are grueling and the trail will start getting exposed as, by now, you are above anything that exists on this island. And as the dawn starts cracking the views and the feelings are simply unbelievable.

 You did it!! You are now at the top, you’ll be ecstatic, awed, and proud of yourself. I can’t describe how is it up this mighty volcano and how stunning this sunrise is, I’ll leave you with this collection of pictures and they’ll do the talking…BTW, these are the clouds, not the ocean:) 

After watching this magnificent sunrise, its time to head back down to the cable car station. Take a good rest here, have a picnic and recharge, as the day didn’t end yet:)

From here, take trail # 12 to Pico Viejo, which is a downhill, and well-marked trail. While on this trail, you’ll have Pico Viejo in front of you and El-Teide in your background…what more to ask for:)

The trail till the view point of Pico Viejo is easy and finally downhill:) then from this point it’ll get tougher as you’ll hike on a lava field till you reach Pico Viejo after around 1:30 hours. 

Have a good rest and lunch as from here you’ll almost be alone till you reach El Parador. It is a 5km hike, all on tough lava field and it’ll be very tiring after this long amazing day. Take your time admiring the magnificent views around you, you are almost there:) 

It will take around 2:30 hours till you reach the parking lot and along the way you’ll pass by the rock formations of Roques de Garcia with lots of tourists around you…what a different world:)

Canary Islands

Canary Islands

Canary Islands

When most people think about the canary islands, they think of beaches and a relaxing vacation unaware that these islands boosts some of the best hiking that you’ll ever find.

Being volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, there are no shortage of wild and breathtaking hikes here that will satisfy the adventurer in you, but you need to fight the temptation of laying on the beach first:)

I did a trip to two of these beautiful islands, Tenerife and La Gomera, and combined both adventurous hikes and wild beach adventures that truly satisfied the adventurous spirit in me. In the next blog posts, I’ll take you through a journey to three hikes in these two magnificent islands that will blow your mind away and test your physical ability to the limit; as well as, venturing to some of the most wild, beautiful and off-the-beaten path beaches in Tenerife, that you can visit them all On Your Own…so lets begin:)

Tenerife:

Hike 1: El-Teide

Hike 2: Anaga Mountains

Hike 3: Wild Beaches

La Gomera:

Hike 1: Vallehermoso – Las Rosas

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