Tag: #backpacking
Otter Trail (Day 3)

Otter Trail (Day 3)

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[Scott Hut → Oakhurst Hut] (7.7 km)

This is the first day when you’ll start encountering the famous river crossings of the Otter trail and you’ll have to plan your hike according to the tide chart to be able to cross these rivers at low tide. The third day of the Otter trail is relatively short, yet it has some challenging uphills. The total distance between the two huts is 7.7 km which will take you around 4 hours, with rests, so you’ve time. However, your start time will depend on the low tide time as the second river that you’ll have to cross, the Lottering River, is after 7 km.    

In this day, you’ll hike on a terrain that, most probably, you never hiked before and you’ll go to places you won’t believe your eyes for their beauty, so get ready and prepare for an amazing adventure:)

The first part of the hike will be, the now familiar, uphill from the hut inside the thick forest. Shortly after that the terrain will completely change and you’ll hike close to the ocean shore.

 

It is an unbelievable background for a hike, what more can an adventurer want other than a blue ocean, green forest, and beautiful sunshine:) You’ll stop a lot here for the perfect ocean picture.

The trail here will involve some boulder hopping and uphills, but every few kilometers you can find hidden pools where you can swim…amazing! 

After 2.5 km, you’ll reach the first of the two river mouths…the Elandsbos river…and it is out of this world.

Crossing this river is very easy, at maximum you’ll only have to take-off your shoes, but the views and the feeling of exclusivity here will make you cross this river back and forth from the excitement.

 

The next section of the trail is the toughest. From here it’ll be an uphill after an uphill and all exposed to the sun without the shelter of the forest trees, but I personally, didn’t realize how tough it was because I was owed by the beauty surrounding me (pic).

After around 4 kilometers, the trail will reach the top of a cliff and start to flatten, to much of your relief. Then in 2 kilometers you’ll start seeing the Lottering river mouth and the huts on the opposite side. At first sight you’ll be scared of the crossing as the huts are directly situated above the river mouth which is deep and wild.

But don’t be as when you start going downhill towards the river, the trail will take you away from the ocean and the crossing will be at a very shallow area. The dissent from here is very steep, so be cautious; and if you reach the river at low tide, you’ll only need to take-off your shoes and cross.

You are now almost at the huts, only 20 minutes left, so secure your bags after you cross the river and go for an amazing swim, but don’t let the fun distract you as the high tide will come. From here to the huts it’ll be a slight uphill and when you reach the huts, you’ll realize that they are situated at an unbelievably amazing spot…so enjoy!

And remember, if you want to check the difference in the water levels between low and high tides, you can go back to the crossing area and try your luck:) and don’t miss the amazing sunset over the ocean.
Otter Trail (Day 2)

Otter Trail (Day 2)

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[Ngubu Hut → Scott Hut] (7.9 km)

Having slept your first night in the wilderness of Tsitsikamma forest and tasted your first experience of the Otter trail beauty, you’ll be all enthusiastic to start your proper Otter trail adventure.   

In day 2, the Otter trail will take you to untouched wilderness beauty that is beyond belief, but you’ll also start your experience with the famous Otter trail steps:) This is fairly tough day but full of diverse rewards. In this day you’ll hike 7.9 km that should take you around 4 hours of hiking, but plan for double of that time because you’ll spend a lot of time enjoying the natural beauties of this day! So have a good breakfast and start early to give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the highlights of this day.

The first section of the trail will be a big uphill in the forest from the Ngubu hut to the top of the plateau. You’ll hike inside the dense green forest away from the ocean but surrounded by the morning sounds of the birds.

When reaching the top of the plateau, there will be a viewpoint above the ocean which will serve as a nice rest stop; however, after that you’ll have a series of small downhills and uphills, inside the forest, till you reach Skilderkrens rock.

Once you put your eyes on this magnificent rock, you’ll know right-away what amazing views await you from its top; it is a very rugged rock that stands all alone on top of the ocean!!

Although hiking to the top of Skilderkrens rock is not part of the trail, believe me…its well worth the detour! So leave your bags at the junction and hike, actually you’ll find yourself running, to the top. 

When reaching the top, just take your time and admire the 360 degrees views surrounding you. From the dramatic waves crushing on the rocky cliffs, to the lush green forest below you, to the wide blue ocean in front of you…so take lots of pictures from every possible angle & enjoy:)

 

After getting back to the trail, proper, don’t forget your bags:) and continue your hike. The next section of the hike will be very enjoyable as it’ll continue downhill inside the forest till you reach this day’s second highlight…the Kleinbos river! This is a nice relaxing picnic spot, but first you’ll have to do some rock-hopping to cross the river, then pick a spot, have lunch, and enjoy.

But wait, this is not what all this river has to offer!! If you venture a little bit upstream, you’ll do some more rock-hopping, then find yourself at a magical water pool imbedded into the forest, so put on your swimsuit and take a dip:)

Being refreshed and ecstatic, get ready for some more uphills and the famous Otter trail’s steps! Take your time, have as many rests as you need, and continue hiking in the forest till you reach the junction for the Blue bay!! At this point you’ll be tired and start doubting whether it is worth the detour or not, especially that it involves a big uphill on your way back to the trail, but I’ll just show you this next picture and the decision will be extremely easy.

Take the detour, you can leave your bag up and hope a baboon doesn’t take it:) we did that! And go down to the bay. You are now in heaven…not only that it is an exclusive heaven, only you and 11 other hikers in this paradise! No matter how I try to describe the beauty of this bay, I won’t be able to really capture it in words…but it is one of the most beautiful sights that I’ve ever seen. Not only that, but you’ll have an opportunity to swim in a clear blue ocean water, surf some waves, and relax in amazing surroundings…it is simply heaven.

 

 

I know you’ll want to spend the night there, and who doesn’t, but unfortunately, you’ll have to go to your hut, so when you are ready, hike back up to the Otter trail, which turned up not as tough as I previously thought. Now take a final rest because the next section of the trail is a big uphill.

It is the final push towards Scott huts, tough one though, so take your time, and put all your effort into it. After this big uphill, you’ll reach an emergency exit, after which it’ll be all downhill to the huts. The huts are located at the Geelhoutbos river mouth, so another opportunity to swim:) 
Otter Trail (Day 1)

Otter Trail (Day 1)

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[Stormsriver Mouth → Ngubu Hut] (4.8 km)

It is the big day, it is the day you have been planning and preparing for for maybe a year. I know you can’t hide your excitement that its finally here and that you’ll finally fulfill one of your bucket list dreams…so don’t! it is the first day of the Otter Trail & it deserves all the excitement you are feeling:) 

The first day of this famed trail is a nice introduction to the trail as it is the easiest of the 5 days. The total distance that you’ll hike today is only 4.8 km from Stormsriver Mouth to Ngubu hut which roughly takes 4.5 hours to complete, yet it’ll be as rewarding as every coming day of this masterpiece of a trail. And being a short day is an advantage as it’ll allow you time for last minute shopping & packing before taking your transport to Stormsriver Mouth, but don’t start later than 2pm (in the summer) to allow yourself time to enjoy all the highlights of this day bearing in mind that if you are based in George, it’ll take you around 3 hours to reach Stormsriver.

When reaching Stormsriver Mouth entrance there will be a designated road for the start of the Otter Trail where, at its end, your transport will drop you at the registration office. Here you’ll sign-in for the entire trail, and do all the necessary paperwork; in addition, they will give you valuable information about the trail, timings of each day, location of emergency exits & numbers to call, the location of the drinking water sources, and above all, a very good map of the trail and the, all important, tide chart (click to request info). After finishing the registration process, there is a preparation room on the opposite side of the street where you can make final adjustments to your backpack, weigh it, and fill your water bottles; and next to this room is the start of your adventure!!

All excited and ready for 5 days of absolute nature beauty away from civilization, then take a picture of this milestone of a step and start:)

The first part of the trail is a downhill hike through the lush green forest. In this part, you’ll be very excited and hike quickly on the sounds of birds & squirrels, then you’ll start getting a glimpse of the magnificent ocean through the thick trees.

You’ll continue hiking downhill for almost an hour till you reach a rocky beach.

At this point, you’ll find a lot of day hikers coming from the direction of the beach aiming for the waterfall which is the furthest they are allowed to go. Right after the beach is the Guano Caves. Often overlooked by hikers who are excited to reach the waterfall, this cave is definitely worth exploring. Although it’s a bit eerie to go inside, the adventurous spirit in you will encourage you to go inside and you’ll feel like a true explorer into the unknown with some amazing rock formations.

After taking your time exploring the cave, the next part of the trail will involve a lot of boulder-hopping along the coast. At first it’ll be physically demanding, but you’ll get the hang of it;

and after, approximately, 2 km from the start you’ll get closer and closer to the ocean and the roaring sound of the waves crashing into the rocks. Throughout this section you’ll find some wooden paths to help you navigate the rocks, but don’t let your enthusiasm to reach the waterfall make you forget that there are amazing pictures to be taken here…so take your time & lots of pictures:)

Just before the 3 km mark you’ll reach the waterfall. Whether the waterfall, itself, is at full force or not, it is still an amazing refreshing sight to admire and the natural pool below it will be a very welcome refresher, so put on your swim suit, unleash your spirit, and take a dip in this amazingly pure fresh water.

Now you are three quarters of the way to the hut so take your time, have a picnic, and don’t let the waterfall distract you from the opposite sight. So grab a comfy rock and relax with a view like no other…the endless ocean and the white washing waves!

Now you’ll realize that all the talk about the beauty of this trail is not exaggerated; and from now on, it’ll be all exclusive for you and your other fellow 11 hikers!!

The final section of this day will start by more boulder-hopping, then you’ll hike a bit uphill info the forest… and it’ll be only you…no more day hikers! Soon after 1 hour, you’ll reach the Ngubu hut and you’ll get a taste of the amazing nights to come.

Settle in, pick a bed for yourself, and get to know your fellow hikers, as they will be the only people you’ll see for 4 days:) At every hut, you’ll find drinking water, fire wood, bbq facilities, fire pits, and toilets, so prepare your first dinner & ENJOY:)
Africa

Africa

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Algeria: Algiers

Egypt: Alexandria, Aswan, Cairo, Hurghada, Luxor, Marsa Alam, Sahl Hasheesh, Sharm El Sheikh, Taba, Western Desert 

Morocco: Casablanca, Marrakesh, Mt. Toubkal, Ouzoud Waterfalls, Essaouira    

South Africa: Addo Elephant NP, Cape Agulhas, Cape Town, Drakensburg Mountains, Durban, Otter Trail, Table Mountain NP 

 
Otter Trail

Otter Trail

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The Otter Trail

It is the crown jewel of South Africa’s national park system, a dream for every nature lover and the one trail on every adventurer bucket list…it is the famed OTTER TRAIL!! 45 km of coastal and forest hiking in 5 days, starting from Stormriver Mouth to Nature Valley; involving: countless uphills, steep downhills, 4 nights sleeping in wilderness huts away from civilization, and, above all, 3 river crossings! All of this can be done independently and on your own…all it requires is some careful planning…So Lets Start the Adventure:)

Without question, the first step is to book your spot on this famed trail as only 12 people are allowed to start the hike per day! Depending on your group’s size, people sometimes need to book a year in advance to secure a spot, so the smaller the group, the higher chance to find a spot. I, personally, was lucky enough to find a spot only a month & half in advance, but they were the last remaining spots in the entire month! So plan ahead and be flexible with your dates.

The booking process itself is very easy and straightforward. You can do it in person, over the phone, or online and pay instantly with your credit card (click to request info).

One final note before setting your date, check the tide chart for the 4th day of your hike to see if you can reach the river crossing at low tide or not as this will play a major role in being able to finish the entire hike and what to pack. Remember, on that day you will need approximately 4.5 hours to reach the river and 2 hours after you cross to reach the hut.

Having booked your spot, the next important thing is to book your transport to & from the trail. Some people prefer to rent a car and leave it at Nature Valley rest camp and book a transport to Stormriver, but this way you’ll be incurring a 4-day rental cost without using the car while, also, leaving the car unattended for 4 nights. So, in my opinion, its best to book a transport from your hotel/hostel to Stormriver and on the last day from Nature Valley to your next adventure. To help you with this, there are two transport companies specialized in Otter Trail transfer, and I contacted both, but found one to be more professional & reliable than the other (click to request info). Booking with them, everything went smoothly from start to end and I, even, left my extra luggage with them till I finished the trail.

Finally, what to pack?? This is the most important preparation step as this will be all the stuff you will have for 5 days. Although you will be tempted to take everything you can, remember that you will carry all this stuff on your back for 45 km, so you have to know what do you exactly need, what your body needs, and, certainly, the weather. I prepared a simple packing list of the items needed based on my experience and if you need help with that, I can send it to you for free (click to request info).

P.S.: some fellow hikers might suggest that you have to train for the Otter Trail or you will not be able to make it…you don’t!! You just need to be moderately fit with a passion for hiking and adventure travel…so enjoy:) It is a once in a lifetime adventure that captures the true spirit of adventure independent travel!

Day 1  Stormriver → Ngubu Hut
Day 2  Ngubu Hut → Scott Hut
Day 3  Scott Hut → Oakhurst Hut
Day 4  Oakhurst Hut → Andre Hut
Day 5 Andre Hut → Nature Valley

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

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[Machu Picchu]

This is the ultimate goal of the whole trip and the amazing trek; visiting this sacred city. In order to make your trip as smooth as possible, there are several logistical things that you need to take care off before embarking on this trip.

First is the entrance ticket to Machu Picchu. There are 3 types of tickets you can purchase: 1) the normal visit with access to Machu Picchu only; 2) Access to Machu Picchu & Montana; 3) Access to Machu Picchu & Huaynapicchu. As you can see, all 3 ticket types give you access to the main site itself, the difference is an additional permit to hike up the surrounding mountains for a view of Machu Picchu from top.

So which ticket to choose? Remember you already saw an amazing view of Machu Picchu on your 4th day of the trek, but if you are up for another very strenuous hike for a closer view, then for me, Huaynapicchu is the one to choose (it is the postcard picture you see for Machu Picchu everywhere). However, you have to take into consideration that the Peruvian authorities limit the number of people hiking this mountain and consequently, these tickets are the hardest to get. On the contrary, Montana’s view isn’t that special, yet it’s still a very strenuous hike and for the same price as Huaynapicchu which makes it not worth it for me. To wrap up this issue, if you feel that you want another view of Machu Picchu and are up for a very strenuous hike after 4 days of trekking, then Huaynapicchu is worth the effort; otherwise, take the cheaper normal ticket, you’ll still get some amazing unforgettable views with this ticket.

Next, having decided which ticket you want, now it’s time to buy it and you should do this in advance especially if you are visiting during the high season (May-September). If you know the exact date of your visit and are familiar with the acclimatization process for high elevation, know your body well and exactly how long you’ll need to spend in Cusco to acclimatize (2-3 days), then you can buy your tickets online through the official website (click to request info). If that’s is not the case and you need to test your body’s reaction to high elevation first, then buy the ticket at the ticket office located in Cusco when you arrive (click to request info), and remember to take your passport with you while buying your ticket. Congratulations, you now have your ticket to Machu Picchu, which should look like this.

 

The final logistical step you need to take care of is how to go from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. I know the adventurous independent traveler spirit in you will say that you should hike up, but believe me, this is an extremely strenuous hike over endless number of stairs in the forest with no views; and by that time, your body will need a rest after 4 long trekking days. Therefore, I recommend that you take the bus up and hike down on your way back. So, buy a 1-way bus ticket from the ticket office in front on the bus stop in Aguas Calientes (click to request info), it costs $12 and you’ve to pay in cash in US$ and should look like this; and remember to take your passport with you to Machu Picchu as you’ll need it at the entrance.

 

Now that you reached Machu Picchu and fulfilled your dream of visiting this amazing sacred city, I’ll leave you to wander around and explore it on your own.

Take lots and lots of pictures from different viewpoints and different angles, it’s a truly amazing site with amazing surroundings and you are in one of the most special places on our planet…so enjoy, but don’t leave Machu Picchu before taking your special free souvenir on your way out (click to request info).
Salkantay Trail (Day 5)

Salkantay Trail (Day 5)

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[The Way Back]

Getting out of Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu on your own can be a bit tricky, yet, with some careful planning, it’s totally doable. You’ve two gateway cities that you need to reach to continue your adventure: Cusco or Ollantaytambo; and depending on your destination, you can either leave on the same day you visited Machu Picchu or spend one extra night in Aguas Calientes and leave the next day. If your destination is Ollantaytambo, then you’ve to spend the extra night as it’s a long hike from Aguas Calientes and you can’t reach it in the same day. So here are the tips you can use on how to reach each gateway city on your own; however, in both cases you’ll skip the bus option back from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes to save few dollars and hike down on your own using the stairs constructed by the Inca people in the forest which will take you around an hour:

  • Cusco: If you are heading to Cusco, then you’ll have to hike your way back to Hidroelectrica using the same train tracks trail you used to reach Aguas Calientes; you’ll be against the normal flow of people which is a bit worrying and you’ll know why later.

 

From Hidroelectrica, you’ll have to take transport to Cusco, which is very far away and over a dangerous mountain road, and it will take you a good 6 hours to reach Cusco. Also, beware that there is no regular bus stop here and this route isn’t commonly used by tourists, so you’ll have to strike a deal with a driver to take you there, which can be expensive, or go to Santa Teresa and find your transport from there. One final hint, since Hidroelectrica is just a place that evolves around the train station, it becomes deserted after the last train of the day (click to request info) and no one will be there to help you which means you’ll get stuck in the middle of nowhere!

  • Olantaytambo: This is the more recommended and straight-forward option. You spend the night in Aguas Calientes and the next morning you wake up at leisure and hike down to Olantaytambo along the train tracks, but on the opposite direction from which you came from. This hike is an easy hike along the forest and train tracks, but long enough to take around 7-8 hours. Having reached Olantaytambo, you can now relax, check out the ruins there and plan your next adventure…IT IS ADDICTIVE:)

 
Salkantay Trail (Day 4)

Salkantay Trail (Day 4)

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[Llactapata → Aguas Calientes]

This is it, this is the day when you’ll be able to tell your friends that “I reached the holy cities of Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu from Cusco trekking on my own.” It’ll be a beautiful hiking day full of achievements and self-reflection on your great adventure.

You’ll start the day waking up at the ancient site of Llactapata and from there you’ll have a magnificent view of the crown jewel…”Machu Picchu itself”, that few other people see or even realize that it exists…and it’s a free view! Take as much time as you want to admire this view and soak in all the feelings of humbleness, achievement, conquering, nomadic, back-in-time…and lots more as every person will have his/her unique reflections at that moment, while immersed in the perfect blend between the beauty of our planet and the genius of the mankind. I know it’ll be a tough decision to leave this view and hike down, but, at the same time, remember that your ultimate prize for all this effort is awaiting for you.

It’ll take approximately 2 hours of hiking down to reach Hidroelectrica as you’ll descend 900 meters while the adrenaline is rushing through your veins while you get closer and closer to Aguas Calientes. The hike is pleasant and easy and at Hidroelectrica you’ll meet a wide array of fellow travelers: those who, unfortunately, didn’t know that they can do what you did and are taking the train; those who used guides to get them to this point; and those like you…the adventurous self-believers!

Hidroelectrica is not a town, its actually, as the name suggests, a place where there is an electrical power plant and a train station that goes to Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo. You’ll be asked to register your name and passport here as it is considered the boundaries of the sacred city, which is an easy, self-done process. From here you’ll hike along the train tracks all the way to Aguas Calientes. Although officially illegal, it was the ancient path to reach Aguas Calientes and the authorities disregard this rule and allow people to hike. Of course, it can be dangerous as trains pass by, but the drivers know that people are hiking and give plenty of warnings.

 

The hike is a slight uphill, but you won’t feel it; on the contrary, you’ll get the feeling that you are in a pilgrimage to reach the holy city. People from all walks of life, from different nationalities, different backgrounds, different attitudes, and different beliefs; yet all are uniting for one single goal…reaching the historic city of Aguas Calientes as our ancestors used to do in ancient times. Enjoy the hike, get to know your fellow travelers, share stories and tips, and reflect on your adventures.

You are finally there!! the feeling of reaching Aguas Calientes can’t be described in words…in addition to the anticipation of a hot shower:). The train tracks cut through the town and you’ll find lots of restaurants, souvenir shops, and hotels that cater for tourists, yet you can still find the local ones and have the amazing local experience away from all this (click to request info).

You did it fellow adventurer, and tomorrow you’ll be in Machu Picchu where flocks of tourists will be there too, but you’ll know that YOU ARE DIFFERENT.
Salkantay Trail (Day 3)

Salkantay Trail (Day 3)

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[Chaullay → Llactapata]

I bet you woke up smiling and full of self-confidence! Another reason to smile is that this will be the easiest day of the trek. It will be downhill on a graded, not steep, slope for almost 90% of the day, so no need to wake up so early. In this day, you will have to decide: in how long, and how do you want to reach Aguas Calientes, more on this later. From Chaullay you will hike downhill all the way to la playa at +2,200m. This is a long, yet a very pleasant hike; you will leave the high elevation mountains and start hiking in the lush green canyon carved by a roaring river and the tropical flora will start revealing itself all around you. In a short while, about an hour, you will reach Collpapampa. There are no major signs here, but it’s a location where a nice waterfall appears over the cliff. From Collpapampa you will head towards La Playa and a dirt road will appear on the right side of the river, while the actual trail is on the left. However, check the trail conditions of this section while in Cusco as it often becomes inaccessible because of mudslides. This was actually the case when we hiked the trail, but no need to panic as you can continue your trek on the dirt road which feels more like a trail actually.

At Collpapampa you will have the freedom to make either choice, but, for sure, if the trail is open…then take it, although it is tougher to hike as it is not graded and switches from being uphill to downhill, and vice-versa frequently, through several switchbacks. However, if at any point you wanted to switch between the road and the trail, it is totally doable via a primitive, yet a fascinating, local mechanism (click to request info). Throughout this section, you will cross streams and maneuver your way jumping over rocks and wooden branches which is fun and adventurous at the same time, you will start meeting more and more local people as you head towards La Playa, which is a big village.

 

Although this section is extremely enjoyable and beautiful, it can become pretty dangerous due to mud slides, on the trail or the road, depending on the season you hike in, with spring being the most dangerous. It actually happened to us, at one section a mudslide occurred over the road and it was blocked for an hour or more, so be aware of the mountain above you and be flexible with your plans and always have alternatives ready in case of any delays.

At La Playa, the choices are open in front of you; although the choice should have been made already before starting the trek. There are 3 ways of approaching Aguas Calientes from here depending on how many days you planned for the trek and the date of your ticket to Machu Picchu, should be booked in advance (see Machu Picchu page), and the experience you want to get from this day.

First option: if you plan to reach Aguas Calientes today (i.e. total 3 days), then you have to run:). It will be tricky, yet doable, albeit at some point you need to use some kind of transport and you should definitely take a flashlight with you, you will hike in the dark. If you opt for this option, the route via Santa Teresa is the one to choose as it does not involve lots of uphills. Depending on the time and the delays you faced, you can hike to Santa Teresa then take transport to Hidroelectrica, (click to request info), then hike to Aguas Calientes.

Second option: if your plan is to reach Aguas Calientes tomorrow, then you can go to Santa Teresa and spend the night there. This is the easiest option, yet the least recommended as Santa Teresa is a modern town sprawling with tour groups and tourists with fancy restaurants and internet cafes which will get you completely out of the adventure mood and ruin the moment of reaching Aguas Calientes.

Third option: This is the most recommended option, you will reach Aguas Calientes tomorrow but you will spend the night camping at Llactapata. Although, by hiking this route you will have to conquer another uphill section by gaining 500m in elevation, yet it is a relatively short hike to your camping place compared to the previous sections and, believe me, tomorrow morning you will not regret this decision (see day 4). Heading to Llactapata, you will start leaving the valley and head again to the top of the lower mountains. This section will be all uphill, but you will start getting amazing panoramic views of the valleys again. Reaching Llactapata after approximately 3 hours of hiking, you will find some ancient Inca ruins. In spite of not being as famous or as grandeur as Machu Picchu, this actually makes them more special and attractive as you will feel that they are yours as only very few people will be there with u; and guess what? You can camp right next to them which is a perfect reward at the end of this amazing day.

 

Overall, this day is a pleasant hiking day with some effort needed in certain sections, yet remember to plan for any possible delays. You will have different scenery while hiking this day from the previous day and you will feel more immersed in the Peruvian countryside culture. For us we were delayed 1 hour and it took us 7 hours of hiking to reach our destination which was another 20km away from Chaullay.
Salkantay Trail (Day 1)

Salkantay Trail (Day 1)

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[Mollepata → Soraypampa]

The Salkantay trail starts from Mollepata and it takes 4 days to reach Aguas Calientes. Mollepata can be reached independently and on budget easily from Cusco by taking a collective from a designated stop in Cusco (click to request info) to the main square in Mollepata. The journey is a bit long so you have to start the day very early to reach the collective stop by 6am, store your bags at the top of the car, and wait till it gets full and leave. It takes approximately 2 hours to reach Mollepata but most of the way is on a well-paved asphalt road. Before boarding the collective, be sure that you have all the Soles you need till you reach Aguas Calientes as there are no ATMs in Mollepata; otherwise, you will have to figure out what the locals do to exchange their money (click to request info) which can be a hassle.

 

After reaching Mollepata, you will now start the trek and this will be the toughest full day of the entire trek as it is all uphill and you gain around 1,100 meters in elevation at high altitude while carrying the heaviest bags of your trip. The trailhead can be easily found from the main square as you only need to utilize your sense of direction and head onto the right street after which you will start seeing signs for the trail (click to request info). The first section of the trail is a bit steep as you aim for reaching Marcocasa at +3,450 meters after 6km of hiking; however, you will be treated with a lush of green forest around you.

 

At this point, after 3 hours of hiking, you should take a good rest and recharge your batteries as the next section is the toughest.

In the second part of the trail you will get into the forest and head uphill to Mirador Chinchirkuma gaining 320m in elevation in 3.6km. Going slowly through the forest you’ll start heading above-the-treeline and the magnificent sight of the snow-capped mountains will start to unveil in front of you.

 

The feeling of reaching the Mirrador is like the feeling of getting out of the ocean after a long dive as, at this point, you are above the treeline and it is 360 degrees of panoramic views of mountains to your left, valleys beneath you, and forests all round you; and above all with the crisp air, previously blocked by the trees, giving you a needed breather and at this altitude you will need every breath of fresh air. This will be a perfect spot for lunch and you can rest, take magnificent pictures, and reward yourself as you accomplished the toughest part of the day; but, do not be fooled, although the rest of the hike is mostly flat, you are now at +3,800m and it will tell on your body and you still have 8km to go.

 

The third and final part of the hike will take you to Soraypampa. You might get a headache and muscle aches due to altitude sickness, but there are ways of mitigating these side effects (click to request info) which will make the rest of the day more enjoyable. This section will be a relaxed one with splendid views of the towering Andes all around you and you should feel excited as you will conquer these mighty mountains tomorrow.

 

When reaching Soraypampa, at +3,922m, (this is not a city, it is a place where you can camp), you can camp anywhere on your own, or camp at one of the camps using your own gear which will give you a chance of using a toilet and eat a hot meal at a very cheap rate. If you opted for the latter option, do not let your tiredness lead you towards the first camp you meet on your way as the lady there will exploit this and over charge you; look around and you will find another camp further ahead that is very cheap and with a much better view (click to request info). One final tip, although you need a good rest, do not sleep too early as you will be treated at night with unbelievable views of the milky way.

Overall, in this day you would have hiked around 20km, gained +1,100m in elevation, in approximately 8:30 hours, so well done.     

     

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