Tag: #hikingadventures

Salkantay Trail (Day 1)

Salkantay Trail (Day 1)

[Mollepata → Soraypampa]

The Salkantay trail starts from Mollepata and it takes 4 days to reach Aguas Calientes. Mollepata can be reached independently and on budget easily from Cusco by taking a collective from a designated stop in Cusco (click to request info) to the main square in Mollepata. The journey is a bit long so you have to start the day very early to reach the collective stop by 6am, store your bags at the top of the car, and wait till it gets full and leave. It takes approximately 2 hours to reach Mollepata but most of the way is on a well-paved asphalt road. Before boarding the collective, be sure that you have all the Soles you need till you reach Aguas Calientes as there are no ATMs in Mollepata; otherwise, you will have to figure out what the locals do to exchange their money (click to request info) which can be a hassle.

 

After reaching Mollepata, you will now start the trek and this will be the toughest full day of the entire trek as it is all uphill and you gain around 1,100 meters in elevation at high altitude while carrying the heaviest bags of your trip. The trailhead can be easily found from the main square as you only need to utilize your sense of direction and head onto the right street after which you will start seeing signs for the trail (click to request info). The first section of the trail is a bit steep as you aim for reaching Marcocasa at +3,450 meters after 6km of hiking; however, you will be treated with a lush of green forest around you.

 

At this point, after 3 hours of hiking, you should take a good rest and recharge your batteries as the next section is the toughest.

In the second part of the trail you will get into the forest and head uphill to Mirador Chinchirkuma gaining 320m in elevation in 3.6km. Going slowly through the forest you’ll start heading above-the-treeline and the magnificent sight of the snow-capped mountains will start to unveil in front of you.

 

The feeling of reaching the Mirrador is like the feeling of getting out of the ocean after a long dive as, at this point, you are above the treeline and it is 360 degrees of panoramic views of mountains to your left, valleys beneath you, and forests all round you; and above all with the crisp air, previously blocked by the trees, giving you a needed breather and at this altitude you will need every breath of fresh air. This will be a perfect spot for lunch and you can rest, take magnificent pictures, and reward yourself as you accomplished the toughest part of the day; but, do not be fooled, although the rest of the hike is mostly flat, you are now at +3,800m and it will tell on your body and you still have 8km to go.

 

The third and final part of the hike will take you to Soraypampa. You might get a headache and muscle aches due to altitude sickness, but there are ways of mitigating these side effects (click to request info) which will make the rest of the day more enjoyable. This section will be a relaxed one with splendid views of the towering Andes all around you and you should feel excited as you will conquer these mighty mountains tomorrow.

 

When reaching Soraypampa, at +3,922m, (this is not a city, it is a place where you can camp), you can camp anywhere on your own, or camp at one of the camps using your own gear which will give you a chance of using a toilet and eat a hot meal at a very cheap rate. If you opted for the latter option, do not let your tiredness lead you towards the first camp you meet on your way as the lady there will exploit this and over charge you; look around and you will find another camp further ahead that is very cheap and with a much better view (click to request info). One final tip, although you need a good rest, do not sleep too early as you will be treated at night with unbelievable views of the milky way.

Overall, in this day you would have hiked around 20km, gained +1,100m in elevation, in approximately 8:30 hours, so well done.     

     

Salkantay Trail (Day 2)

Salkantay Trail (Day 2)

[Soraypampa → Chaullay]

This is the big day! It is the day that you should cross the Salkantay pass at +4,630m to the other side of the mountains where the descending part starts. Although the total elevation gain in this day is only +740m till the pass, it is all at high altitude and you will feel the impact of doing effort at this elevation in its full. Two pieces of advice before venturing into this ultimate adventure; 1) take all the altitude sickness remedies you packed before the trip because you will need them; 2) Take Your Time hiking up, at this elevation you will hike at a much slower pace so do not be frustrated…its normal, and take as many rests as you need on your way up to enjoy the pure beauty surrounding you. As it will be the toughest half day of the entire trek, wake up early to give yourself the longest hiking window (daylight) possible, have a good breakfast at the camp and, most importantly, a positive spirit.

In the first section of the uphill you will be aiming for Salkantanypampa at approximately +4,100m. the start of the trail should be easy to spot from your camp. At that time, you might find some guided groups of hikers/horse riders who will out-pace you as they are hiking with no heavy backpacks because the horses are carrying them, so don’t be depressed…you are the real adventurer here. In this section, the towering snow-capped mountains will be facing you popping up from behind the clouds every now and then.

 

Once again remember to constantly take the altitude sickness remedies if you feel any headaches or tiredness with the best being the local tradition (click to request info) and drink lots of water. You will reach Salkantaypampa after 3.2km and 2.5 hours of hiking…too long I know! But once more the most important advice at such altitude is to take your time; at the end, you are on your own and far away from help, but on the positive side, you can see the pass now and this should make the adrenaline rush through your blood.

The next section will take you to Soyroqcocha at +4,400m which is the trickiest section of the entire trek. As you start hiking at a slower and slower pace, after 30 minutes you will meet a junction of two trails with no signs! So, which one to take? One trail is an uphill zigzag wide trail, while the other is a narrow, mostly flat, albeit on a cliff. Although both trails will ultimately lead to Soyroqcacha, one is much tougher than the other and, at this altitude, you will need every tiny bit of energy. In honor of the true adventurer spirit, I will not reveal here which trail to take, but one tip! If you know geography and the definition of a pass…trust your knowledge!! (click to request info).

 

At Soyroqcocha, there will be a beautiful small alpine lake surrounded by meadows, so take a rest enjoying this view and refresh yourself before embarking on the last section to cross the pass.

The final ascent from Soyroqcocha to the Salkantay pass is as tough as it gets. You will probably hike a couple of meters and rest, hike again and rest, but seeing the pass, hiking high in the clouds, and knowing that you are very close and that you deserve the reward of getting there will carry you all the way to the pass and on top of the mighty Andes, believe me…you are almost there.

 

YES, you are now at the pass, you crossed the Andes and hiked above the clouds on your own, you are a true adventurer who believed in him/herself and was rewarded with this amazing feeling.

Now you will be so excited and you will forget all about the altitude sickness, you will be like a little child running around, taking pictures, and congratulating yourself; and please do that, the views from that high, the fact that you are so small in the middle of all these mighty mountains, and the sense of achievement at this point are priceless. You reached the pass after 4-5 hours and 6km of uphill hiking (depending on which trail you took) so congratulations. Take a deserved break, admire the beauty surrounding you that only few people get to see, have a small lunch, and lots of smiles; but be careful, its windy up there and after the adrenaline rush fades away, you might get some headaches. It is up to you how long you want to stay up there, but remember, although its downhill from here all the way to Aguas Calientes, you are still at high elevation and your pace will be slower.

Hiking down the first section from the pass to Wayramarchay at +3,850m will be mostly on a rocky trail so be careful where you put your feet as you can easily slip. With the mighty Salkantay in your back now, you will feel unbeatable and you are! The views and the trail from this side of the mountain gives you a feeling that you are in a completely different planet. Unlike the other side which is green and full of life (it is the side that gets the rain), this side is rocky and barren but that does not mean that it is not as beautiful in its own way and it is more wild.

 

You are now literally in the clouds and looking down to the distant green valley which gives you a panoramic view of the beautiful Peruvian countryside. At Wayramarchay, you will find a small village with a local family selling snacks and drinks from a small kiosk which will be a nice sight and an opportunity to restock your supplies. There will also be a clean water source from where you can refill your water bottles.

The last section to Chaullay is the most pleasant, the mountains will get magnificently lush and green again and you will descend approximately 1,000m to a considerably low altitude of +2,850m. Although the target is Chaullay, if this day proved too long for you, there is another beautiful place where you can camp for a small fee approximately an hour before reaching Chaullay (click to request info); however, if you decided to head to Chaullay, you will be treated by a nice, downhill trail with stunning views.

 

Chaullay is a small village where locals will let you camp for free at their places, these places are mainly simple wooden structures with an upper story where you can set your tent and camp or you can camp in the garden surrounding the house; the former option been particularly useful if it is raining. The whole local family lives there, so be respective and courteous and buy something from them, they make delicious food with the local specialty “Lomo Saltado” and have ice-cold beer, so treat yourself and live the full Peruvian countryside experience.

Overall, in this day you will hike around 22km, gaining an altitude of +740m to the pass at +4,630m, descend -1,800m in approximately 10 hours; so, congratulations “You Crossed the Path On Your Own.”     

 

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