Grand Canyon NP (All the way to the bottom)
All the Way to the Bottom
It is a place that needs no introduction! It is a world-famous natural wonder that truly earns all the rave reviews about its majestic and grandeur landscape. It is the Grand Canyon!! This stunning place is perhaps the most recognized landmark of the Wild Wild West. Even if you are not an adventurous person, you have to visit this out-of-the-world place at least once in your lifetime, and it will take your breath away.
I first visited the Grand Canyon NP, in my younger days, in 2008. At the time, I wasn’t the experienced hiker/adventure that I’m today and it didn’t even cross my mind that I can hike down the canyon, all the way to the mighty Colorado river. During that trip, I did a self-driving day trip to witness this stunning place with my own eyes, and it didn’t disappoint. In that trip, I planned a road trip along the south rim’s all viewpoints and had the time of my life, without really doing any adventurous stuff; so that is why I urge you to go visit this place even if you don’t fancy hiking down the canyon.
Fast forward 7 years, and in 2015 after a lot of hiking adventures around the World, I decided that I’m ready to tackle this seemingly impossible feat and hike all the way to the bottom of the canyon and, of course, hike back up:).
When attempting such a difficult hike, preparation, both physically and logistically, is the key to its success, as any mistake might lead to serious injury or even death. So, before getting into the hikes themselves (up & down), I’ll first go through the major planning items that you need to consider before you decide to go down and you can do all On Your Own!
The first thing you need to plan is when to do this hike? There are two options here: summer, which is more popular, and winter. Although the summer heat is the number one killer when hiking up from the river, there are some advantages that come with hiking in the summer. First, there are water sources along the major trails, up and down the canyon, which means that you don’t need to carry all your water from the beginning and can be a lifesaver. Second, the weather at night is warm so no need to carry a heavy sleeping bag or even a tent as you can sleep under the stars. Yet, you have to be aware of the heat, its no joke, and time your hike up perfectly to avoid the hottest hours of the day. On the other hand, in the winter, obviously, heat becomes less of a problem and the hike becomes a bit easier. Also, as it is less popular, it’ll be easier to get the permit to spend the night down. However, there won’t be any water sources along the trails as the supply is shut down, so you have to carry all your water for 2 days with you from the beginning! Also, you’ll need a tent and a heavy sleeping bag as it gets cold at night and this adds to the weight that you are carrying. So, assess your abilities and decide which season is better for you…we did winter:)
After deciding on when to hike, now its time to get your permit. You can’t hike all the way to the Colorado river and back in the same day, its not allowed and rangers along the trails will send you back up. You can’t also camp anywhere along the river as this is a fragile environment and the number of campers allowed per night is limited and controlled by the NP. Hence, you have to get a permit which comes with a camping spot reservation. The process of getting the permit is straightforward, but its in high demand, even in the off-season. Also, you can get this permit neither online nor in advance, so you have to go to the park’s backcountry office the day before your planned hike and get your permit. The permit system is based on first come first served, so you have to go very early to be one of the first people there when the office opens at 8am.
Got your permit! Now its time to plan your supplies. This is a very strenuous and long hike up, so you’ll need plenty of food, water, and drinks to give you energy along the way i.e. both salty and sweet snacks. But remember! You’ll have to carry all this stuff on your back, so, don’t overdo it and pack food that doesn’t take much space. Fruits are also important as they are highly nutritious and gives you a much-needed psychological boost when you are tired. You can find the detailed list of my packing items here (click to request info).
Hopefully, by now you’ve planned everything and ready for this adventure of a lifetime…so lets start:)
There are a number of trails that go all the way to the bottom of the canyon from the South Rim, so study all the trails (their length & slope) and chose yours carefully. Since I did this hike in the winter, the water sources were not a factor in my decision, and I chose to hike down via the South Kaibab Trail and up via the Bright Angel Trail.
I decided to hike down via the South Kaibab Trail as it is the shortest trail which means it is the steepest and will be tough going up; yet, going down, it is an adventurous trail as in many places you’ll be hiking around cliffs with amazing views of the river. The trail is 7 miles with an elevation difference of -1,457m and takes around 4-6 hours to reach the river. On the day of our adventure down, we took the hikers’ express shuttle from the backcountry office at 9am (latest) to the South Kaibab Trailhead. This is a dedicated shuttle bus for backcountry hikers and you’ve to show your permit before you board. Now we are at the trailhead and the adventure will begin…any last thoughts about going through with the hike have to be dealt with here:) Ready!! Take a souvenir pic & go:)
The first part of the trail will take you in a zigzag section through some steps and you’ll lose elevation quickly.
I’ve to admit that with every step, fear starts to creep into you as, unlike mountain hikes, after a certain point, you just can’t turn back and abandon the hike! As you venture deeper into the canyon, more and more amazing views of this stunning landscape unveil themselves to you.
The trail will get steeper and windier after about an hour of hiking, so, be careful with every step you take and always take your time while hiking down.
At this point, you start to realize the grandeur of this canyon and that you are now deep into this wilderness with no people around and you’ll stop thinking about any doubts you previously had as your adrenaline will be pumping and all you care about is reaching the mighty Colorado river. Yet, at this point, you still didn’t see the river! However, the first sight of this mighty river will give you goosebumps and a feeling that can’t be described.
Here, conflicting feelings will creep into you… you are getting closer to your goal, yet you are getting further from your final destination! But keep going…you’re born for this.
Now the trail will get flatter and you’ll keep getting amazing views of the river as you go further down…so, enjoy and abandon your fears.
Finally, you’ll reach the river and the bottom of the Grand Canyon…it is a very surreal feeling and the degree of humbleness that you’ll feel in this grand landscape is beyond belief. When you reach the river, go to your campground and pitch your tent. Now its time to relax and enjoy.
When night falls, you’ll start realizing the extent of the task ahead of you tomorrow to get out of this canyon…its scary, and like it is written on the signs along the trail “going down is optional, up is mandatory!” My advice to you, distract yourself from these thoughts by keeping yourself entertained and have trust in your abilities and planning skills…So have a good night’s sleep and get yourself ready for the big day.
Hopefully, you’ll wake up refreshed, have a good breakfast, and pack your camping gear and get yourself ready. As I mentioned earlier, I took the Bright Angel Trail up as, although it is longer, its less steep and easier to hike up. Also, this is a popular trail for day hikers who hike down to a certain point and back, which means that near the end of the trail, when you are tired, there will be people around and help will be quicker in case you needed it. So, lets start getting out of this wilderness and my advice to you….Take Your Time…and don’t over exhaust yourself at the beginning by being too eager to go up.
The first steps on your way up, the adrenaline will be pumping as you’ll be scared of what lies ahead, but this part is easy and goes along the river.
Then, the trail will turn left, away from the river, and you’ll start your long way up. From this point, its all Up:) but not so steep. Also, this trail has some vegetation around it which is a welcome sight from the desolate desert landscape.
I know in this part, tiredness and doubt will creep into you, but keep going and always keep hydrated and charge your energy by whatever trail mix you packed with you. In the middle of all of this, don’t forget to look back as this is where the amazing views of the canyon are.
Continue going up and take as many rests as you need, but be wary of your timing as you don’t want to hike up in the dark. Also, it will help if you kept your spirits high by singing or doing whatever cheers you:)
Over the last mile, you’ll start meeting the day hikers and they will look at you in awe which will make you realize the extent of the achievement that you just did.
The last part of the trail is a zigzag section and it can be grueling especially that by now you’ll be completely drained. However, at this point, you’ll start seeing the rim above you and the end of this adventure, which will be enough to give the last needed boost to keep going. You are almost there and when you reach the final step up, savor this precious moment, enjoy, and treat yourself to a nice meal:)